
That's what the plaque at Newfound Gap says, dedicating the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. We were fortunate to get tickets for yesterday's 75th Anniversary rededication ceremony, which took place at the same spot where President Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicated the park in 1940, six years after the park was established.
continued...
The day started at a huge public parking lot in Pigeon Forge, where 27 buses waited to take guests to the top. We ran into Rikki Hall and friends, and also a former neighbor and park volunteer who was there with her husband working the event. There was a similar staging area on the North Carolina side at Cherokee.
Our fleet of buses rolled out about 9AM, with a police motorcycle escort through Pigeon Forge, over the Gatlinburg bypass, and up 411 to the top at Newfound Gap. 411 was closed between Gatlinburg and Cherokee for the event. While we were waiting to depart, a ranger on our bus briefed guests. He said they had invited President Obama, but he would not be attending and that was OK because they had Dolly Parton.
Once at the top we were greeted with a recreation of the 1940 scene, with United States, Tennessee, and North Carolina flags and red, white, and blue bunting decorating the Rockefeller Memorial at Newfound Gap, which sits on the Tennessee-North Carolina border. We'd heard there were 2000 tickets available to the general public (so we felt pretty lucky to get ours) but there were a lot more people than that. And there were lots of VIPs and dignitaries, plus media. I'd estimate closer to 4000 people were there.
The scene was a little different from the 1940 event with the presence of TV news satellite trucks and luxury motorhomes for Dolly and other VIPs. There was a catering tent, but they seriously underestimated demand. Lines were long and the wait was nearly an hour. (Waiting in line with the Mrs. was former governor Don Sundquist, who I believe now lives near the park in Townsend. You'd think he would have somebody to stand in line for him.)
Shortly after we arrived, Rikki Hall came over and introduced us to Doug McDaniel. We've known Doug for years through the blogs, but had never met him in person so that was nice. Doug took us over to see Doug and Cathy McCaughan who were there with two of their kids. Everyone had cameras and video recorders. The event would be blogged!
The press area was busy with journalists from all over the region. I believe half or more of the News Sentinel was there. We met up with Scott Barker, Erin Chapin, Duncan Mansfield (AP), and Greg Johnson. We also saw Georgiana Vines and Sam Venable working the VIP ropes. There were a whole bunch of others I didn't know including lots of photographers and videographers. I joked with Greg Johnson that he should write a column about these socialist national park programs and all this taxpayer money being spent on the event and the free bus rides.
While all that was going on, Rikki Hall was spotted with his binoculars, bird-watching around the venue perimeter. He said he observed nine or ten species, including a rarity that I don't remember the name of. Hopefully he got some pictures for a Friday Bird Blogging report.
There was a light drizzle of rain at the staging area in Pigeon Forge, but it had mostly stopped by the time we got to the top and the weather was pleasantly cool. The clouds broke and the sun came out midway during the speeches, long enough for me to get a sunburn.
The event got underway around 11:30AM, with Great Smoky Mountains National Park Superintendent Dale Ditmanson making the introductions. There were four U.S. Senators, three U.S. Representatives, two Governors, the Secretary of the Interior, the Director of the National Park Service, a Cherokee Elder, and the Cherokee Principle Chief. And Dolly Parton.
Senators on the stage were Sen. Lamar Alexander (R-TN), Sen. Bob Corker (R-TN), Sen. Richard Burr (R-NC), and Sen. Kay Hagan (D-NC). Representatives were Rep. Phil Roe (R-TN1), Rep. John Duncan (R-TN2), and Rep. Heath Shuler (D-NC11). Rep. Zach Wamp (R-TN3) was scheduled to attend but could not make it. Tennessee Gov. Phil Bredesen (D) and North Carolina Gov. Bev Perdue (D) rounded out the program of elected officials. They were joined on the stage by Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar, National Park Service Acting Director Dan Wenk, Cherokee Elder Jerry Wolfe, and Cherokee Principle Chief Michell Hicks. And Dolly Parton, the official Great Smoky Mountains National Park 75th Anniversary Ambassador.
Supt. Ditmanson noted that this was the first time in history that all four Senators from the park's two states were together in the park at one time. There would have been a full Congressional delegation if Zach Wamp had been there.
Also on the stage near the podium was an empty chair. Seen in many of the photos, this is the original chair used by President Roosevelt at the 1940 dedication ceremony.
There were brief opening remarks by Rep. Roe, Rep. Shuler, Rep. Duncan, Sen. Corker, and Sen. Hagan.
Supt. Ditmanson spoke about the history of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the "vision, sacrifice, and stewardship" that has gone into creating the park and maintaining it. He acknowledged the work of people like photographer Jim Thompson, publisher Charles A. Webb of Asheville, Knoxville Mayor Ben Morton, Horace Kephart of Swain County, and contributor Carlos C. Campbell. Descendants of all these families were present and recognized. Supt. Ditmanson also recognized people in the audience who were there at the first dedication ceremony in 1940, people who were born in the park, and members of the first Civilian Conservation Corps.
This was followed by the Blessing of the Park by Cherokee Elder Jerry Wolfe. Elder Wolfe "smudged" the park to keep evil away and to protect the mountains and our spirits and our hearts and to keep them clean.
He lit the smudging powder and waved a raven feather, which has fearful power, to bless the seven points of the Cherokee compass with smoke. First we faced East, where power and light come from, then to the South, and then to the West, where darkness comes at the end of the day, then to the North, where cold comes from. Then to down to Mother Earth, from which all life comes, then up to the sky and our heavenly home, and finally forward to the Father, the creator of all things.
Elder Wolfe then sang an old Cherokee song set to the music of Amazing Grace, which was taught to them by settlers, followed by another traditional Cherokee song. The blessing was my favorite part of the program, and very moving.
Next, Dolly performed "My Mountains, My Home." She was accompanied by singers from the Dollywood production of Sha-Kon-O-Hey (the Cherokee word for "land of blue smoke"). Dolly is donating proceeds from sales of the Sha-Kon-O-Hey CD to the park, which so far has raised more than $200,000 for the Friends of the Smokies.
Dolly was explaining the origin of Shakonohey, and said that when she first heard the word it sounded like a Pentecostal speaking in tongues. She said she was Pentecostal but doesn't speak in tongues, and instead speaks out of both sides of her mouth like a politician. She then joked that "it's a good thing this is my last day as ambassador because I'd get fired for that remark."
Interior Secretary Ken Salazar then spoke on behalf of President Obama to rededicate the park. He spoke about the challenges facing our natural resources, from climate change to loss of land to development, and the fact that our younger people are losing touch with the outdoors and our environment. He honored the work of people who created the park and pledged continuing support for the Smoky Mountains and all our national parks. He mentioned that not only is the Great Smoky Mountains National Park the most visited park in the country with 9,000,000 annual visitors, but it also has the largest economic impact of any park at $700 million annually.
Next Sen. Burr spoke, calling the Smokies the closest you can get to heaven on Earth. Sen. Alexander then spoke about the park's history and acknowledged those who worked to create it. He talked about the environmental improvements over the years, and the restoration of natural areas and wildlife. He also noted environmental regulations that have reduced acid rain in the park caused by sulfur emissions. Rikki Hall noted later that he was happy to hear Sen. Alexander praising the cap-and-trade program that accomplished that.
Next up, North Carolina Gov. Bev Perdue and Tennessee Gov. Phil Bredesen spoke about the beauty of the park and the importance of preserving it for future generations. Acknowledging those who gave up land for the park, Gov. Bredesen quoted former Tennessee Gov. Prentice Cooper, who said at the first dedication in 1940 that "unlike parks in the West, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a gift of the people to the government, not of the government to the people." Gov. Bredesen said "we are the beneficiaries of that foresight."
The program wrapped up with Sec. Salazar thanking the park employees and others involved with putting on the event (who did an outstanding job, by the way), followed by the playing of the Star Spangled Banner by the Gatlinburg-Pittman and Swain County High School Bands, and a benediction by Rev. Dan Matthews.
And last but not least, Dolly Parton closed the show with her performance of "Forever Home." Just as she finished and thanked everyone for coming (and noting that she needed to "VIP"), clouds began rolling up the valley from the East, decorating the venue with wisps of "blue smoke" and providing the perfect ending for a wonderful day in the Smokies.
More coverage:
• KnoxViews photos
• Cathy and Doug McCauhan photos
• Doug McDaniel photos
• Knoxville News Sentinel
• WATE
• WBIR
• WVLT
RELATED: National Park Service official site
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I too enjoyed Elder Jerry
I too enjoyed Elder Jerry Wolfe's remarks best of all. I also liked Ken Salazar, and he and Lamar Alexander seemed the most grounded and humble of the speakers. Superintendent Dale Ditmanson seemed delighted with the whole event.
Here is my list of birds, all of which were likely there 75 years ago as well:
eastern kingbird, Baltimore oriole, cedar waxwing, black-capped chickadee, veery, red-eyed vireo, blue-headed vireo, Cape May warbler, Blackburnian warbler, American redstart, magnolia warbler, yellow-throated warbler, northern waterthrush. I also saw two hawks soaring and playing off in the distance, probably broad-wings. My bird photos were mediocre, but I've got one worth posting tomorrow.
Did you notice the two birds
Did you notice the two birds flitting over the stage?
corker and alexander?
corker and alexander?
sorry, couldn't resist.
Dolly did say (paraphrasing) "sorry for all my fidgeting, but there was a bee over here as big as a watermelon," and "that's water I'm drinking, not pure grain alcohol..."
Ba-doom-ching! No, there
Ba-doom-ching! No, there were two birds dancing high over one of the speakers, like birds circling over Wile E. Coyote's broken head.
That's a problem with video
That's a problem with video taping the whole thing and not actually watching, as well as having to stand in line for an hour for water. I brought my own water but they wouldn't let me take it on the bus!
The birds doing some
The birds doing some flycatching above the stage were kingbirds.
Guys on the bluff with
Guys on the bluff with tripods explained...
Greg Johnson:
Cool!